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One of our dogs would be traumatized if we lost the frog - it's his favorite place to pee

No argument on brushing. Definitely can get a quality finish that way. Spraying is just easier if you have the equipment IMO.

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Steve Smith
"Music is what feelings sound like"

For a local high spot, is there a safe way to buff it?

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David Malicky

Just a couple quick comments:

1) if you're sanding thru, then either the wood was not blocked flat enough or the finish is too thin (or both!)
2) I don't typically have any luck patching an area that was sanded thru
3) HVLP guns are good, but don't buy a $100 Home Depot gun. That's what I did initially and it just never atomized well enough to minimize orange peel or to spray bursts, etc.
4) measure the finish as it builds up in one or more spots. Most people build up to about .007 or .008" for topcoats.

Hope this helps, finish is certainly challenging!

Trev

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http://www.PeakeGuitars.com

You most definitely can feather in a sand though with a air brush. The trick is to lightly sand as you go. Btw, I'm using EM6000. Not sure if this extends to nitro, etc. probably works best with melting finishes.

Mike (got one in the shop right now that I'm doing this with)

If your talking about a run, drip, puddle etc it's best to scrap with a razor blade before cutting back and then polishing.

Finishing is actually a misnormer, as you are actually never finished, you just have to stop working at it at some point... It is also a great test of patience, as it does nothing for the sound or playability of the instrument, but if you don't hang in there and do everything the best you can, a lot of the other work that has gone into the building will be not be taken as seriously by many. I've upgraded my finishing facilities over the years, and I have my process woked out pretty well, so I'm both faster and better than I used to be, but its still a lot of work and a often a source of frustration. So, if you are dilligent and just keep practicing on and on, your reults will be about as good as the big guys, which is what most buyers expect. Anything less, and you have som explaining to do, and that is not where you want the focus to be.

<edit> When I saw the thread title, I though the OP had neglected to use a proper respirator mask, and was suffering from the effects. Some of the stuff we use is that nasty, you know!

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Rian Gitar og Mandolin

I'm learning that the surfaces need to be really flat prior to finish application.
What type of block is good for achieving a flat surface on the bare wood?
I've seen mention of an eraser, but I'm not sure what that is.
I do all final sanding by hand.
Thanks,
Dan

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Not sure what others do but I use drafting erasers and often cut them into different shapes as needed. Like these:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00006IFAY/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I also use a selection of plywood blocks of different shapes and sizes up to about 3" x 5". Smallest is about 1/2" x 1". I often use PSA sandpaper on the smaller blocks because it's easier to handle.

For the waist or other tight curves I have some 6" pieces of 3" PVC pipe with PSA sandpaper on them.

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Steve Smith
"Music is what feelings sound like"

Yeah I've used drafting erasers, or even old fashioned pink erasers. Wrap the sandpaper around that and you're set. For large areas I use a piece of plywood with cork glued to one face cut to a half sheet length. Basically anything that's semi hard and fairly rigid will really improve sanding a finish as doing it just with your hand means you're applying most of the pressure through one or more tiny points of contact, which makes it real easy to grind through an area.

I start with 1200 on water base finish, well I used to, I don't use it anymore. But like the OP I sanded through way too many finishes and only the water based stuff. Maybe it lays down thinner then lacquer I don't know?

So to the OP what grit paper are you using and are you wet or dry sanding?

But anyway it's been my experience that it is possible to repair it but it is not easy. One thing you absolutely must do, assuming you are wet sanding, is to let that sanded through spot dry up real good.